TA05 - GRT (Eagle Racing) - All tips and advice appreciated

[Moolz]

I recently purchased a TA05 drift conversion kit from Broadtech. Because I had a V1 TA05, I ended up buying all the extra bits (bulkheads, front and lower arms, etc) - to make up a complete chassis. I mostly drift on tarmac.

I am running the following CS setup:
Front:
36/14 (centre one way)
Spool diff
-5 degree camber
2 degree toe out (1A outer and 1X inner suspension blocks)
TRF shocks with Tamiya yellow (medium) springs (Hamster mod)
35W shock oil
30g of weight
2mm droop
Zero kick up
10 degree caster hubs
TRF shocks

Rear:
24/28
Spool diff
0 degree camber
1 degree toe in (1X inner and 1B outer suspension blocks
TRF shocks with Tamiya soft (red) springs (Hamster mod)
35W shock oil
2mm droop
Zero kick up

Tyres:
HPI T-Drifts
Broadtech medium compound radials
Yokomo Super Drift Zero One

Servo:
Hitec entry level 0.13s

Motor:
8.5T Novak - running @ 50% power on my radio.

The biggest problem I am having is that the tail is EXTREMELY tail happy.
Any suggestions, tips or advice on how to slow down the rear stepping out will be highly appreciated.

[Calzone]

I think removing the front spool and change it for a ball diff or oneway (whatever suits you best) will improve it.
Also i think your CS ratio is way to high, which could result in the tailhappiness, because it makes it very nervous to control.
Adding some rear Toe might help out a bit too.

The only real advice i can give you is to check out other ER conversions on this forum and on hyperdrift to see what others have for a set.

[bajaboy5b]

Ball diff or oneway front will really help and run little to no front toe out as that makes the car more tail happy.

Also,it wouldn't be the CS as I have driven 252% and it isn't all that bad just a fair bit slower then normal CS.

Jeremy.

[tatmanfish]

Yeah, CS is fine. I'm running at 2.23 with no problems. Its all smooth easy throttle and your suspension setup. The suspension setup is the biggest factor to how the car handles.

Make sure your shocks are rebounding the same. If they are, I would then adjust shock position. The more layed down they are, the looser the rear end. He more upright, he more stiff the rear end. Moving your rear shocks to different angles makes the world of difference. I had the same problem and just moved my shocks more upright and the problem was solved.

A stiffer front end give it a little more bite and allows it to recover a little more. Adding weight also has the sane effect and it adds a little more preload due to the increase of weight. I'm running 35g weights, so I think your pretty close to where you need to be. Just adjust the shock position.

Really, the only things that will effect handling is the setup or the person controlling the car. CS setups are all bout getting the feel of the car down whether its 50/50 or 250%. Too powerful of a motor could too, but that's not the case given what you've listed.

[tatmanfish]

I'm also running a front one way. Timing the switchback with smooth throttle can be tricky. Once you get it down though, you can snap it back and forth in really tight areas with ease.

[Moolz]

So I should get rid of the centre one way and run a front one way with a ball diff in the rear?
Or - try keeping the spool in the rear with a one way up font.

I was also told that a wider rear shock layout would increase stability provided that the front was more up right.
Will give your suggestions a bash and see how things turn out.

[tatmanfish]

definitely keep the spool in the rear. The center one way Im not a fan of because over time it wears out the shaft and I personally dont think its as responsive as having the front one way. Some people like to just run a tight diff up front. Its really preference.

Im running a front one way(after having a center for a little while) with a solid spool in the rear. Thats just me though. I like how when you let off the throttle to switch just a hair, as soon as you get back into to it it seems to grip a little quicker. At least thats what Ive experience.

The biggest thing though is suspension setup. You can run any number of those setups and it will all handle differently. The trick is matching your suspension setup to make it work good.

I run my rear suspension at more of an angle than the front, but since going to a large CS, its creeped to a little more upright. Usually just one or two spaces makes the world of difference on how the rear responds.

[Moolz]

Thanks for the tips guys.

I have been playing around with a number of variables which has definitely settled things down a little. I'm waiting for my Broadtech delivery (one way and a longer suspension block). The TRFs have also been rebuilt, again with the Hamster mod. I'm using 250 in the rear and 350 in the front.

Have any of you had any experience with the Eagle Racing drift springs? I think that the Tamiya red springs are still a little too hard.
With 2.2 - the biggest lesson is learning not to turn in and more about getting the weight to shift. I definitely need to spend time practicing my throttle control!

[Moolz]

Thanks for the tips guys.

I have been playing around with a number of variables which has definitely settled things down a little. I'm waiting for my Broadtech delivery (one way and a longer suspension block). The TRFs have also been rebuilt, again with the Hamster mod. I'm using 250 in the rear and 350 in the front.

Have any of you had any experience with the Eagle Racing drift springs? I think that the Tamiya red springs are still a little too hard.
With 2.2 - the biggest lesson is learning not to turn in and more about getting the weight to shift. I definitely need to spend time practicing my throttle control!

[Calzone]

Softer springs will give more traction, so more speed, and with a 2.2 ratio you'll need to do anything to get more speed as i've learned myself I think i have gone pretty soft, namely ultra soft springs at the rear and super soft at front together with a #250 damper oil. Also kick up, front AND rear will improve traction noticable

I have no experience with the Eagle Springs, i can only recommend the progressive springs from Square

[tatmanfish]

Softer springs will give more traction, so more speed, and with a 2.2 ratio you'll need to do anything to get more speed as i've learned myself I think i have gone pretty soft, namely ultra soft springs at the rear and super soft at front together with a #250 damper oil. Also kick up, front AND rear will improve traction noticable

I have no experience with the Eagle Springs, i can only recommend the progressive springs from Square

Yeah, mines not quite as soft in the rear, but pretty close. Im still running stock spring tough(may change soon). In the front Im running a much heavier oil though(associated 55wt). I also have found that speed is highly dependent on the tire you run as well. T-Drifts and Raikou dxpe70 both seem to have the best results as far as grip/slip and still keeping a good amount of speed.

My ratio is 38/14 front and 28/23 in the rear so my CS ratio for front and rear are pretty close as well.

[Moolz]

I think one of the main problems with my over steer problem is my throttle control.
In frustration - I reduced my CS to 71%. Definitely a lot more stability - although, I still need to get used to holding it.
Unfortunately - due to a strike within our postal service - my front 1 way, 1D suspension block and softer springs are all waiting for them to be processed!

Is there a maximum amount of camber that one should consider?
Im currently running -5 degrees on the front and -2. If I had to reduce to front contact patch of the wheels (-8 degrees) - would that create understeer?

Also - is there an ideal servo speed for CS?

[tamiya]

i do not like using crazy camber - your grip patch changes as your tyres wear, you'll be forever chasing your tail

don't use much camber unless you're running high caster c-hubs,
then your steering also varies tyre's grip patch as it turns


really helps if you can corner-weigh your car, you don't realise the difference between
each wheel's grip until they are equal side-2-side & F-to-R balanced to your choosing

[rek_one]

upgrade your servo to a faster servo or become faster at catching the rear end. along with a good suspension setting

[Moolz]

Finally managed to sort out all my niggly issues and get a firm grip on the GRT!
My setup:
CS: 71%
Droop: zero front and rear
Camber: front -6, rear -2
Caster: front -10, rear 0
Toe: front -1, rear -0.5
Shocks: front 400 oil, 3 hole piston, EA extra soft springs (1.1); rear 150 oil, 3 hole piston with hamster mod, ultra soft 0.9 spring

Its taken a long time to iron out all my setup issues - but im finally loving this chassis!